A city of contrasts

After a very long day of travel, we arrived in Israel. Our flight left London at 7:15am so we were at the airport before 5am. After arriving in Tel Aviv we took a bus to Jerusalem. Our amazing friends Khawla and Adnan were already waiting at the bus stop even before we let them know we were in town. I think they were as excited as us.

Jerusalem is a striking city of contrasts for us. There is the joy of staying with our very dear friends. They have added on to their delightful multi-story home in Beit Zafafa in Western Jerusalem. To our delight they have added what we lovingly call the “Starlight Suite”. It is on the roof of their building with fantastic views of Jerusalem. New to us was an enclosed area for sitting and sleeping with views of the stars and wonderful breezes at night. Also there is a great garden with computerized watering. On the spot, Kathi announced we were spending our first night in the “Starlight Suite”. I think Khawla and Adnan were a bit stunned, but we did it.

The next morning, Khawla fixed a traditional favorite of ours. Shakshuka is a lovely dish of eggs and vegetables. A great way to start the day.

After some discussion, we decided to proceed to Bethlehem. Now, we have to been to Bethlehem on our previous two visits, including one on a drizzly Christmas Eve with our children. This was to be a very different visit. Bethlehem is only minutes from Khawla and Adnan’s but it is a world apart. That is due to the wall. We had to pass through a border that Israel has setup to keep Arabs and Palestinians away from their areas. I realize these new elements may upset some people, but they are incredibly important.

The Jewish people were horribly persecuted and executed in the Holocaust. We have been to numerous Holocaust museums around the world and we abhor the treatment of Jews in World War II. Unfortunately, in their desire to create a Jewish State, they have created their own oppression of the Palestinian people who have lived here for millenniums. Above you see the prison-like wall that surrounds all the Palestinian areas. It looks like a prison. It essentially is a prison. In the city that the Prince of Peace was born, violence and oppression are the norm of the day. It is enough to turn our stomachs.

We had the opportunity to go to a very amazing protest right next to the wall. It is called the Walled Off Hotel. In displays and art it tells the story of the Palestinian plight. Banksy is the lead artist for the project and has done some of the most controversial art related to the wall.

There is a small but powerful museum that gives the confusing and frustrating history of the issue. It has a low admission charge but is packed with lots of information.

We would encourage all of our friends to visit Israel. And when you come, look at both sides of the issues facing both Jews and Arabs. The Palestinian plight is an important part of the narrative of what is going on here. A solution that realizes the rights of all people is the only solution. Oppression  is not an answer. Intimidation is not an answer. Hate is not an answer.